Steel garden edging, with ClickConnect lengths that click together

Choose by the line you want. Flex bends by hand on site, so it suits tight curves, tree rings and free-form shapes, down to a curve radius of about 29cm for ClickConnect™ Flex and about 35cm for Original Flex. Rigid holds a straight line and takes gentle curves. Zero-Flex is for dead-straight runs that must not move, such as along paths, paving and formal borders. Flex and Rigid can be joined in the same run when you choose the same height and the same range.

Both ranges are 1.5mm steel. ClickConnect™ comes in weathering steel, and the Original range comes in weathering steel or galvanised. ClickConnect™ edging is offered in 100mm and 150mm Flex and Rigid. Each length has a connector plate fitted at the factory, and you slide the next length on until it clicks, with no screws. The Original range, which includes 75mm, 100mm and 150mm in Flex, Rigid and Zero-Flex, joins with a pre-attached connector plate and is fixed with Tek screws. The two connectors are different, so keep each run within one range.

75mm suits lawn-to-bed mowing edges and shallow borders. 100mm and 150mm hold back more soil and mulch and give a deeper border. Edging is mostly buried, so allow for that when you choose. For mowing edges, see our lawn edging ideas. For taller beds and retaining, look at our raised garden beds in 240mm, 400mm and 560mm.

Flex and Rigid edging is usually buried by at least a third of its height. How much more depends on what will be leaning against it from behind: the heavier or denser that material is, the more of the edging should go into the ground, and the more that is buried, the stronger the edge. Zero-Flex only needs to be buried far enough to hide its foot. On a firm base with the soil or mulch filled close to the top, the edge holds its line.

Use a corner piece. It comes pre-made at 90 degrees, and you can bend it to a different angle by hand. Corner pieces are available for the Original range; ClickConnect™ corner pieces are not yet available in Australia. To make your own corner or cut a length to size, you will need an angle grinder.

Yes. Flex and Rigid edging can both follow a slope, as long as the incline is even along the run. The notches in Flex are there so it can bend around curves; they do not help it follow a change in slope. Where the slope changes, step the edging at that point and start the next run at the new level. Zero-Flex needs a smooth, even base, which can be on an incline. For steeper ground, build terraces with raised garden beds. See our guide to sloping garden ideas.

For ClickConnect™ Flex and Rigid you need a spade, a hammer for the spikes and a rubber mallet, because the lengths join by hand. Original edging, including Zero-Flex, joins with Tek screws, so you also need a cordless drill and a Tek screw bit. The only time you need an angle grinder is to cut lengths or make your own corners. Every length in both ranges comes with its connector plate already fitted and its spikes included, and our installation videos show each step.

Both finishes are the same 1.5mm steel and use the same parts, so the choice comes down to the look you want and where you live. Weathering steel, similar to COR-TEN, arrives dark and builds a rust-coloured patina over the following months. Galvanised keeps a silver-grey finish. Weathering steel suits most inland, well-drained gardens. Within about 2km of the coast, salt in the air can stop the patina forming properly, so galvanised is the better choice there. Our Longevity Guide explains how to choose for your site.

Weathering steel rusts on the surface first, and that rust layer then settles into a patina that slows further corrosion. A patina does not make any COR-TEN or weathering steel completely rustproof, and for this reason drainage matters most, especially for the part of the edging that sits in the ground (usually at least a third of its height). Free-draining soil, keeping mulch from piling up against the steel, and choosing galvanised near the coast make the biggest differences. The Longevity Guide and Product Care Guide explain what affects service life and how to look after your edging.

Weathering steel can leave rust marks on light paving and concrete during the first few months while the patina forms. Leave a small gap between the edging and the pavers, or choose galvanised next to light paving. Once the patina has settled, the run-off stops, and marks that do appear can usually be lifted with oxalic acid.

Yes. Every profile has a rolled, rounded top edge, so there is no raw cut edge along the top. If you cut a length or make a corner yourself, smooth the cut end before the edging goes in.

Straightcurve is owned, designed and engineered in Western Australia, where the company started over a decade ago. Our products are manufactured to our designs in Shanghai, China, to the highest ISO standard. As a result, Straightcurve is the highest-precision product in landscaping steel. This also allows us to distribute globally with greater efficiency, furthering our wider mission. Every batch of steel comes with a test report covering strength, thickness, coating weight and composition, and the Longevity Guide explains how that steel performs in Australian conditions.

Use the Design Tool on this page. Choose your profile, height and finish, and it works out the lengths, corners and accessories you need. Take that list to your nearest stockist, where you can see the edging in person and buy it. Stock varies between stockists, so call ahead to check they have your products. If you would like to see prices first, request our price list. Landscape professionals can apply for a Trade Account to access trade pricing, build product quotes and use our technical trade resources.